ZERO – APRIL 2, 2021

Good Friday. Have you ever said those words on a moving day? Not on a normal moving day. This was a moving day with no destination. It was more of a going day.  I just finished my last day of work before a six month sabbatical. The majority of the time would be spent hiking the 2,653 mile Pacific Crest Trail from Mexico to Canada, through California, Oregon, and Washington.  My belongings were minimized to a few car loads that I would be storing at my parent’s house a couple of hours away.  Over the next three weeks I visited friends, packed resupply boxes, humidity trained in Florida, desert trained in Arizona, and did a 50 mile shakedown on the AT.  The day before I started I flew to San Diego and enjoyed the afternoon in La Jolla before heading to the C.L.E.E.F. in Campo.

ONE – TUESDAY APRIL 27, 2021

Daylight. The sun had risen and the clock started. I heard others waking up and it sounded like a group was gathered together. I walked over to the picnic table and was offered some funfetti pancakes and coffee from “Legend”, a PCT volunteer. My spork was nowhere to be found so the good ole trowel would have to suffice. I had not used it yet, so it wasn’t that gross. It almost felt like the first day of camp, conversing with these complete strangers from all over. Another volunteer, “Hypsy Gypsy”, arrived and was doing a quick free sunrise yoga session. I figured what the heck and went for it. A good stretching sounded like a smart idea.

Enough of the pancakes and yoga.  Time to walk to Canada. It was a perfectly sunny day but with a slight chill from the cold front coming in last night. That added to the goosebumped thrill of this unknown path. I was constantly turning around all day to see if the border was still visible. The further I went, the smaller the wall became.

About an hour in I crossed railroad tracks and there was a sign that read “Mexico 3 Miles Canada 2647 Miles”. I couldn’t help but laugh with excitement and intimidation all at once. The day rolled on and the trail kept going. Around every corner was another untouched landscape, at least to me.  It was easy to stay focused with each step I took.  That first day I saw two snakes. They were not rattlers but were painted with the pattern of southwest desert, camouflaged with the terrain. They both slithered away but I knew the next few weeks I had to walk with intention. 

In the late afternoon I reached the first town of Lake Morena. I stepped off and rewarded myself with a beer and a milkshake from Oak Shores Malt Shop. After a break I headed back to the trail and passed by the county park where a few other hikers started to set up tents. At a nice even number of twenty miles, this marks a good stopping point for your first day on the Pacific Crest Trail.  I saw Sab, who I met at breakfast that morning, and she asked where I was going.  I said hey there are still a couple of hours of daylight left and I was going to keep hiking. A few other hikers overheard and looked at me like I was breaking a rule by going any further on the first day. 

At about twenty six miles in the day I walked underneath Interstate 8. This was close to my daily goal of 28.2 so I kept walking another mile until I found a tent site far enough past the noisy cars and trucks. I was stoked to have nearly reached my daily goal from the get go.  Of course I sent a video to close friends for some congratulatory dopamine. My buddy Matthew (maybe sarcastically) replied that I HAD TO take a picture of my campsite every single night. Actually not a bad idea. Some hikers take a selfie every single day so this could be my iteration. 

The Campsite Collection was born. 

TWO – WEDNESDAY APRIL 28, 2021

Day two let’s keep moving. A few miles in I crossed a gravel mountain road and saw a pile that looked like trash. Nope. Trail magic! There were oranges and all colors of the Gatorade rainbow for the taking. On the other side of the road I saw a sign that said this section was maintained by San Diego Ultra Running Foundation. They made the D silent to fittingly acronymize as  S.U.R.F. I had a brief euphoric mental pause, recalling my now retired ultra running career.  That was the past and I had to move forward.  

The next town of Mount Laguna was coming up and after messaging a friend I decided to hike through town and bypass a mile of the trail. I knew there was not much to see on that section and there were also a couple of fire closures in the coming days. It wasn’t possible to hike every single mile of the trail so I had to quickly break the purist mentality. If you are a purist or a future purist stop reading now. Mount Laguna also came with another reality check. At about mile forty one it would not make sense to stop here for the day. I needed fifteen more miles today to stay on track. If I wanted to stay in a trail town for the night I would have to adjust my pace to either speed up or slow down. It would probably be the former unfortunately. My pack was already full of too much food but I grabbed some tortillas and started a new tradition of having a town beer. A Pacifico sounded appropriate. I was just in the ocean 72 hours ago and hadn’t showered since, sand still in my toes. There was a Sierra Nevada pale ale but I hadn’t earned that yet. I went back out to the porch for a quick break, looked up and noticed a sign. “No alcohol on premises.” My beer was already half empty. I mean half full. So might as well finish the job. A few other hikers were coming and going from the front of this store, doing quick small resupplies like me. One of them I talked to for a bit, I think his name was “Trail Dog”. He gave me a Peak freeze dried meal. My pack was already bursting out the seams but it was hard to pass up food this “fancy”. That is when I learned free food doesn’t count towards your pack weight.

In the late afternoon I reached Pioneer Mail Picnic Area. The second day in a row I reached an awkward mileage, this time 52.6 and I really wanted to push another five miles. There was a pit toilet, water trough, and picnic tables. What more could you want? I stood around the water trough with a few other hikers and we were all staring at it. The murkiness was questionable and it felt like jumping off a cliff. Nobody wanted to go first. I went for it, dipping my bottle, filtering, and heading back on trail.

THREE – THURSDAY APRIL 29, 2021

The third day I realized this was not just a weekend trip.  My typical backpacking jaunt would be ending on the third day and right now I would be heading to the car.  Instead I would continue through the hot desert.  There was not a town crossing this morning so I had to hike about a mile off trail to find a spring.  Down at the spring I met “Lucky Charms” who shared her tarp with me for a lunch break.  

In the afternoon a reached the desert oasis of Scissors Crossing.  This is a large sandy shaded area underneath a fairly busy highway overpass.  There was a couple who hiked back in the day who were making snow cones and offering sodas to all of the hikers.  In the middle of the day everyone was stretched out avoiding the heat.  To the untrained eye this would appear to be a homeless encampment party.  I talked with a few of them including “Music Box” and a couple from Chico, California that I refer to as “Chico and Chica”.  They tried to convince me to wait until sunset and night hike but I explained the miles I was trying to do and pushed on.  At about 1 AM I heard voices approaching my tent.  It was the crew!  I was laughing that they ended up at the exact same spot as me.

FOUR – FRIDAY APRIL 30, 2021

The first to camp is usually the first to leave.  I woke up packed up and started walking.  Chico leaned up and said “ahh Crusher!”.  I said excuse me.  “You’re just out here crushing miles.”  I replied that “I will see you down the trail” (which in most cases was not true but you never know).

Shortly after starting the day I passed Connor.  I called him “UPS Connor” after hearing about the job he just left in the real world.  He kept up behind me for a couple of hours.  At one point we came to a sudden halt on the trail after seeing a rattlesnake.  We both slowly inched closer to it and eventually realized it was dead.  After passing by we decided we should turn around and move it off the trail so hikers behind us didn’t get spooked.  The result was a pretty funny video with both of us laughing.

That afternoon I passed by Eagle Rock and was approaching another town, Warner Springs.  My pack was still fairly heavy from my first day and these frequent town stops were not helping.  The last few nights were not too cold and I realized I could save some weight by sending my puffy and my wool socks north to Kennedy Meadows, the southern edge of the Sierra.  After a quick Google I saw the post office closed at 3 PM, less than an hour from now.  I had about three miles to go so I had to pick up the pace.  It was mostly downhill so I started running.  After passing by some confused day hikers I made it to town in time.  

Next to the post office was a gas station where about ten others were sprawled out under the shade.  It was definitely that time of day again. Since I just lost a bit of gear weight I decided to stop in the store and grab a few things.  I talked to a few of them and met “Thin Mint” who coincidentally was also living in Knoxville, Tennessee before the trail.  

A couple of hours past town I reached Agua Caliente Creek.  That does not sound enticing (hot water) but it was an oasis scattered with campsites of hikers.  The distance from town was short enough to pack out some good food and several others I could see were enjoying some drinks as the sun started to set.  I seemed to be late to the party so I kept pushing on to look for a spot.  Just as I was about to climb out of the creek gorge I saw someone waving at me and greeted me.  I was trying to get a few miles but figured I should stop and talk to him.  Once I walked over to the camp I was offered a glass (filling of my Smartwater bottle) of wine and we started talking.  It was Friday so I might as well enjoy the moment, not that the day of the week mattered out here.  For his own sake I will refer to him as “Wine”.  He had a red swollen face and began to vent his worries of not making it much further and not having made as many friends as he expected to.  I reassured Wine not to worry and his friends will be made and he will find his stride.  After a second glass I pushed out of the gorge for another hour and set up camp.  I was pretty exhausted and there was not much room for a tent.  First cowboy camp!!

FIVE – SATURDAY MAY 1, 2021

This morning was easy to get up. I was already outside and there was minimal packing to be done. I checked my belongings and realized nothing was missing. That was not so bad. I filled up at Agua Caliente the night before and had a few hours until I reached Mike’s Place. This day was a notably dry section. There were handmade signs pointing off the trail and after wandering down a side road I reached a huge water tank and left a contribution in the donation jar. Later in the day I reached Mary’s Place. She was another trail angel who supplied a large source of water out here. There was a large group hanging at Mary’s and per usual were confused why I was pushing on into the sunset (yes like a cowboy). I was rewarded with the best sunset I had seen so far, over the desert cliffs.

I reached Highway 74 a bit after dark and stopped to make some food. I threw on a layer and plugged in my phone to my battery. It would not charge. I realized other than an hour in Warner Springs I had not recharged my battery in the five days I had been on trail. I knew a mile down the highway was Paradise Valley Cafe, a famous trail food destination. The cafe did not open until later the next day and I would not wait around but I did need to charge up. After a bit of road walking I reached paradise. I searched the perimeter of the building and found an outlet to charge for a couple of hours. I went back up the highway to the trailhead and was so exhausted at that point I found a spot near the parking lot to crash.

SIX – SUNDAY MAY 2, 2021

The first mountain range was on the books for the day.  There was only one water access point in the San Jacinto’s that I knew of.  The climb up would be steep and exposed, so I stopped to fill up early in the day.  It was almost a mile down to this spring and when I re-joined the trail there was a group hanging out at the junction.  Here I met “Price Point” (go check out his channel https://www.youtube.com/c/SomeDudeWalking ), “Honeybear!”, “Tree Trunk”, and a few others.  They were the real deal, all having hiked the AT or PCT prior to this year.  After telling them I was on day six and my plans to reach Canada in under 100 days, I felt that I had gained some immediate attention, being a newbie.  Before parting ways we exchanged info and Tree Trunk said he was going to call me “Ghost” since he “would probably never see me again”.

Once on top of the San Jacinto ridgeline there were several blowdowns from a past fire.  I was exhausted from all of the direct sunlight and tree climbing.  I decided to stop at the one spring which added a couple of miles.  On this side trail I met “Cooper” and “Bambi”.  I also passed by a guy who I named “Lazy Hiker” after commenting on his hat which comes from a familiar brewery back in North Carolina.  

The last two days I pulled 32 and 35 mile days so I could make it to Idyllwild tonight.  After almost a week out here, a shower and bed sounded nice.  I booked a room at the Silver Pines Lodge but as this day dragged on I was not confident about making it in time for 7PM check-in.  I ran the entire side trail down to the valley and on the way down called the lodge once I found service.  I spoke with the owner Chris and she said her husband Steve would drive a mile up the road to pick me up at the trailhead.  So nice! At the lodge I showered and dressed in some hiker box loaner clothes for a trip to Idyllwild Brewpub while my clothes were washing.  I could still smell something after some scrubbing and could not blame it on the clothes.  It was an unfamiliar smell, not of body odor but just strange.  This was my first true town meal so I treated myself to a burger, fries, a plate of wings, and of course some beers.  I tried to convince myself it was hiker hunger but I knew that was still developing.

With it still being early May and Idyllwild being the highest elevation night so far (over a mile high) the night chill settled in.  I was missing my puffy but was glad I had a warm bed with an in-room wood stove.  I was so tired and comfortable that I fell asleep with the TV on.

SEVEN – MONDAY MAY 3, 2021

Steve was driving a shuttle back to the trailhead at 10 AM so I had plenty of time for resupply shopping, pack cleaning, and even a coffee from the local shop.  It was a steep climb back up the ridge to the PCT and then a few hours of ridgeline traverse before descending down.  With this first mountain range behind me it felt like a milestone passed.  I reflected on the journey thus far, every day packed full of people, places, and experiences.  Particularly I thought about the names I had been given.  “Crusher” and “Ghost”.  Those both seemed like common names someone could get on a trail.  A name is meant to be unique.   Also I liked both of these names so instead of picking one I could combine the two.  “Crusher Ghost”!  Nope.  That didn’t quite ring.  “Ghost Crusher”? Sure. Walk with it. 

A few days before beginning my hike I messaged a guy I knew named Nick AKA “Young Cappy” who I was pretty sure was living in the area at the time.  This afternoon I was nearing the Interstate 10 crossing at Cabazon, close to where he was living in Palm Springs.  A few hours before sunset he rode his bike up an access road and then began trail running southbound toward me to meet up.  I was quickly descending the San Jacinto’s and just after dark I passed the 200 mile marker but Nick was nowhere to be found.  After about a mile with my headlamp I saw another light coming my way.  We finally met up and hiked down together another mile or so to the access road.  Nick brought a beer for me and we shared stories before he headed home.  I decided to camp here next to a huge rock and a water fountain.

EIGHT – TUESDAY MAY 4, 2021

Once I had packed up for the day another hiker approached and stopped to fill up water.  I realized I met him back at the Warner Springs gas station.  “Good Things” told me every day he says to himself or exchanges with others three good things that he is thankful for.  Out here, those three things could be as simple as it gets.  Food, water, shelter, etc.  He was drinking what looked to be like chocolate milk.  I was curious so after asking he explained it was two instant coffee packets and a Breakfast Essentials chocolate protein/meal replacement powder.  That sounded perfect.  I had not been spending the time to make coffee in the mornings and the desert heat did not pair well with a hot cup of joe.  That quickly became my go-to.

While approaching I-10 I wandered through a desert field, the first time the trail had really disappeared, with only cairns to follow.  Adjacent to the interstate was a railway with a train passing by.  I could see the conductor and in the moment instinctually tugged my arm down like you would do for a truck driver as a young kid.  He blared the train whistle and waved at me.  I laughed at the surreal moment and did not take my phone out for a picture or video but instead enjoyed the interaction.  Underneath the train tracks was a trail underpass where water was cached and a few other hikers were hanging out.  They said a trail angel just took a car full to the nearby town and would not be back for about an hour.  I did not want to wait so I got a quick Uber to Cabazon.  There was a small market for some resupply but this stop is most known for its In-N-Out location.  This was the second actual town meal I had on trail and the first fast food I had seen the whole time.  Animal style was personified.  Before heading out I grabbed a Chipotle burrito for dinner later.

Back on the trail I was now in the heat of the day.  It was a short steep climb through a wind farm and I thought I was going to crap my pants.  Over the ridge I descended into Whitewater Preserve’s Mission Creek.  I was already behind schedule from not getting in and out of town quick enough (see what I did there?) but this was one of those places you had to swim.  There were probably a dozen hikers lounging in this desert oasis.  

Nick came out to meet me down the trail again.  There was not much phone service but back in town that morning I told him where I was aiming to be by night.  Just before sunset I saw him coming up the trail.  He didn’t have time to hang but tossed me a beer before heading out.  Not long after Nick left I found a spot beside the creek where several others were camped out.  Another night in the desert near a water source seemed unreal.  I devoured my burrito and chips, washed down with a local IPA.  This was definitely the best trail meal I had so far.

NINE – WEDNESDAY MAY 5, 2021

Most of the morning was spent climbing up Mission Creek.  The trail would follow one shore and cross back and forth to the other with several sections in the actual creek bed.  For the second day in a row the trail started to disappear with only cairns to follow but this time there were thick trees and brush in the way.  Several times I felt completely lost and was laughing about it when criss crossing with some of the other hikers.

Once out of the creek brush the trail started to climb into the second mountain range, the San Bernadino’s.  This climb up the range was easier than the last and seemed to have more of an alpine feel and less desert than the San Jacinto’s.  I knew I would not make it to Big Bear for the night but went an hour or so into the darkness.  When I started to look for a spot to call home I heard someone yell at me from the side of the trail.  A little spooked I panned over and saw another cowboy, camping down the hill.  He asked me to turn off my torch and look up at the night sky.  “Do you see that?”  There was a line of stars or satellites that were in a perfect line traveling across in sync.  “Peagle” said he wanted to make sure someone else could also see that in case he was tripping or going insane.  After a quick Google I told him it was Elon Musk’s latest project, Starlink.

TEN – THURSDAY MAY 6, 2021

This morning I woke up with a couple hours to hike to get to the road for Big Bear.  At the trailhead it felt like a bus station with hikers coming and going to and from town.  I hopped in with a few others, shuttled by Spencer.  He was a 21 year-old taking a year off from college after the pandemic took his classes online.  The past winter he was working at one of the local ski resorts and was spending the spring shuttling hikers.  In town I resupplied at Stater Bros. and grabbed some brunch at Mountain Munchies (highly recommend).  While waiting for Spencer to take me back to the trail I charged my battery a bit.  

On the way back I saw dozens of hikers strolling the streets of Big Bear.  This was the most I had seen in a town by far.  Back in Idyllwild I kept hearing from the locals that I was a week or two behind the bubble.  Now I think I was right in the back of the pack.  It was that same feeling I get in a college town.  Mostly 20-somethings on a week day, not on any particular schedule just kind of going with the flow.  You could tell they were thru hikers from their hiker hobble or the town uniform of colorful and Hawaiian shirts combined with some sort of flip-flop or crocs.  We even stopped at ITH hostel to pick up a group and it took everything in me not to stay for the day.  There were people hanging out on the porch, drinking beers and playing cards.  This was one of those towns I wish I had pulled a huge day to make it here in time for an evening. But the In-N-Out was worth it.

ELEVEN – FRIDAY MAY 7, 2021

At about 7 AM my sister would also be walking today, not on the PCT but across a stage for her college graduation.  I made sure to wake up as soon as I could and get some miles in.  I knew I needed service to watch the live stream of her ceremony.  The only problem was that the first half of the day was through a deep creek gorge, accurately named Deep Creek.  Just before time I scrambled up a hillside and tuned in.  After waiting a while I realized it might be a minute so I told my family I was going to keep moving and to tell me when it was about time.  I did not get service again until later so I missed it but they understood.

In the early afternoon I reached Deep Creek Hot Springs.  This was one of the most famous swimming holes on the trail so again, I must stop and swim.  It had been four days since my last shower so I rinsed off and also did some laundry (rinse and ring).  There were several groups hanging out including some Friday beers and skinny dipping.  Emerging from Deep Creek I passed through the Mojave River Dam spillway and into the southern edge of the desert.  With that came the wind.  My body had not adjusted to the lack of humidity out here and the dryness finally caused a huge nosebleed.  I spent about an hour hiking with my bandana wrapped around my face.

Yesterday Nick told me he might join for a few days this weekend since I was still only about an hour from where he lived.  That made me feel slow but also realize that is an hour as the car drives, not as the hiker hikes.  He was going to park at the Interstate 15 Cajon Pass junction and hike a few hours south to then join me northbound.  This was also convenient for me since my first resupply package was in Wrightwood, 23 miles north of there.  After my Warner Springs experience I decided to research the Wrightwood Post Office hours and saw they were only open until noon Saturday and were closed Sunday.  This meant if I did not make it in time I would be taking a zero day in Wrightwood.  Nick was going to drive me from Cajon to Wrightwood to get my package and then we would drive back to Cajon and start hiking again.

As if it were a routine, Nick and I met up just after dark and hiked for a few more hours.  We were skirting the shores of Silverwood Lake which Nick passed before sunset and said it was beautiful.  We stopped at Cleghorn Picnic Area where I made a pasta side and Nick tried to eat his failed attempt of a cold soaked meal.  Live and learn. We hiked until 1 AM to camp on top of Cleghorn Ridge.  This ended up being my longest day on trail at 42 miles.

TWELVE – SATURDAY MAY 8, 2021

After pulling a huge day I would have liked to sleep in but there was still a deadline to meet.  We made it to the trailhead with almost two hours for the thirty minute drive.  In Wrightwood I got my package and instead of hiking this next section with my entire resupply I tied it up in a tree by the trailhead.  Our goal was to make the hike from Cajon to Wrightwood that same day.  On the drive back to Cajon I had that feeling of a college road trip, windows down, music up, and stopping at Del Taco before parking.  We also grabbed some ice cream cones from McDonalds which is a must stop for thru hikers.  There were about a dozen of us under a tree in the grass.

After passing underneath the interstate and some train tracks we began to climb out of Lone Pine Canyon and up the San Gabriel Mountains.  At this point I began to forget which range I was in but decided it was the third one.  We climbed thousands of feet but the whole way it was smooth and easy to keep pace.  Just after it felt leveled out it was time to turn down a side trail and descend into Wrightwood.  We reached town about 9 PM and were craving some hot food and cold beers.  It seemed like everything was closed but we found room at The Inn.  It was your typical local dive bar but it was open late and that is all that mattered.  We got some wings, chicken fingers, and beers.  There was nowhere to camp nearby so we crossed the creek bed behind town and climbed up a hill to find some stealth spots.

THIRTEEN – SUNDAY MAY 9, 2021

This morning I decided I actually would sleep in, almost until 8.  After a few big days I was almost a whole day ahead of schedule.  I wasn’t going to burn a whole zero day but I might as well take my time doing some town chores and the beers last night encouraged that notion.  We grabbed breakfast at a famous trail spot, Grizzly Cafe.  We met “Ghost” on the street and he joined us.  See, the point I was making about a typical trail name came true.  We stopped at the grocery store and then hung out to recharge at Mountain Hardware for a bit.  This is a famous stop where you receive an original Pacific Crest Trail System pin.  By the time we walked out of there I had the same feeling as I did in Big Bear.  There were hikers all over the streets and I did not want to leave.  I decided to hang out in front of the Wrightwood Market and enjoy the moment.  Nick stood out on the road and quickly was able to hitch a ride back to his car at Cajon Pass.  We parted ways and I was thankful for having someone push me down a mountain range and back up into another.

After the steep climb back up the ridge I only had about 12 miles to reach Vincent Gap.  From here there was only a few miles up to Mount Baden-Powell but beyond the peak the trail was closed from a past fire.  I dropped my pack at the gap and decided to run/hike up for sunset.  I was still sore from the first day and had not broken in my trail legs.  The running was tough but it felt light.  On the way up I was seeing mostly day hikers who were giving me strange looks and saying the typical things like “man you are crazy!”.  I reached the top just before dark and met “Santiago”.  Unfortunately I had to break the news to him that the trail was closed just past this summit.  We enjoyed the last light at high altitude, almost 9,500 feet! This was more than 1,000 feet higher than the previous high points in the San Jacinto’s and I was feeling just fine.  I think Santiago camped near the top but I ran down and found a fire road at the gap to set up shop.

FOURTEEN – MONDAY MAY 10, 2021

No cars were in the parking lot early in the morning.  Baden-Powell is a popular day hike for people living in Los Angeles but it was also a Monday.  I waited over an hour after only a handful of cars passed by.  Eventually an older Toyota Tacoma pulled over, already with two other hikers inside.  I crammed in there and realized this was my first actual hitch, not counting what felt like an after school carpool system in Big Bear.  Carol was a trail angel retiree living in Wrightwood who shuttled hikers up this road often.  Lutzka and Honzi were from the Czech Republic, the first international hikers I had met other than Sab from Canada.  I was surprised to meet any Europeans but understood after they explained having visa’s carried over from last year.

After being dropped off at the end of the closed section we pushed on and I did not see Lutzka and Honzi until the afternoon when I stopped for a break at the Mill Creek Forest Service fire station.  I did not get a true overnight charge in Wrightwood so it was nice to find an outlet on the side of the building.  It was another hot desert day and we took shade leaned up against the pit toilet structure.  Shade does not discriminate.  The sun was moving and we were constantly scooting over to stay out of the heat.  This was another nice moment sharing a tarp with other hikers for a mid day break.  Honzi asked if I liked my trekking poles and I replied with a laugh, noticing the manufacturing origin from his homeland.  I never saw my Czech friends again but I am glad I stopped to hang out.

This section on the north face of Mount Gleason in Angeles National Forest was the first place I noticed fear mongering.  People were saying it was too overgrown to hike and should be skipped.  The trail was open so I was going to hike it (give me some credit if you are still reading, purists). It was mostly desert brush and not much more than a branch in my face here and there.  There was an eerie feeling, though, not seeing many others through mid elevation desert wasteland.  Ravens were flying overhead and making a clicking sound, how they communicate with each other.  They were most likely talking about me.  Rolling around the side of the foothills did not leave many flat spots, even for a cowboy.  I looked ahead on the map and reached a flat spot just after dark only to find it taken by another group.  I went a little further and up the ridge from the trail was an old cemetery with plenty of flat ground.  Like I said, it was eerie.  Flat ground, too, does not discriminate.

FIFTEEN – TUESDAY MAY 11, 2021

My pack was feeling light again so I made a run down to Acton on the Santa Clara River.  Here at the KOA was my second resupply box.  This was another desert oasis like Whitewater, but this time man made.  There was a general store, a pool, grassy field with sprinklers, trees wrapped in lights, sun canopies, and shaded spots to set up tents.  I wanted to keep up the momentum I had, being about a day ahead of pace.  After a shower, some shower laundry, and a few Cactus Coolers I left the oasis.  At this point it had been over a week since my last actual shower and laundry at Idyllwild so it was a good decision.

Part of the wonder of hiking a trail is the places you might not hear about beforehand.  The approach to Agua Dulce passes through Vasquez Rocks Natural Area.  Sure, you hear about all of the National Parks and some of the National Forests, but this was just a local park, part of LA County.  I hit it just before sunset and the lighting was perfect.  The landscape reminded me of the desert rocks of Utah.

In Agua Dulce was a small strip mall where hikers usually camp in an adjacent abandoned lot.  One of the locals told me a few days ago there were over a dozen of us camped out.  Tonight it was just me.  After passing what seemed like huge crowds in Big Bear and Wrightwood I figured I might be ahead of the bubble.  In reality I may have been simply in the eye of the storm.  The “back of the front pack” or the “front of the middle pack” to put it in racing terms.  In the strip mall was a Mexican restaurant and a pizza shop.  Maybe I smelled too bad or they were over guideline capacity but the Mexican restaurant would not seat me.  Just before the pizza shop closed I went in asking to buy a slice or two or whatever they had left.  The manager gave me a gallon ziploc bag stuffed with a handful of slices for just $6. The trail provides. Several of the locals passed by asking questions, interested in what I was doing.  I hung out with all my zza and waited until the town closed down to scavenge from the power outlets and water spigots.

SIXTEEN – WEDNESDAY MAY 12, 2021

It was a slow morning, waiting for Home Made to open for breakfast.  They asked if I wanted to sit inside or on the porch.  With the sun up I could already feel its heat and opted for air conditioning.  I plugged in my battery and was also dumbfounded at the sight of a TV.  It had been over a week since I could remember starting this deeply into a television.  

There were not many but this was one of the few miles of road walking on trail, even in a non-fire year.  It was hot on the asphalt out of town, passing by several signs indicating popular film locations and a filming airfield for the nearby Hollywood. 

There were several signs along the trail but today I noticed a unique one.  While climbing over the Leona Divide there was a large sign for a 50 mile race that had not been updated in a decade.  My eye was caught by the names of Scott Jurek and Karl Meltzer.  I find some similarities with those two guys, starting off their careers with trail running and transitioning into long distance trails.  That inspiration and stoke carried me through the day and into the darkness.  

This was the first time and possibly the only time my headlamp died.  I realized I had not charged it much, if at all the last two weeks, maybe only in Idyllwild.  After a quick swap with my extra batteries I kept moving and made it to Green Valley.  Here was another Forest Service fire station with a large picnic area where I found over a dozen hikers, mostly asleep at this point save a few.  I was still buzzing from the day and walked a mile down the road to the gas station for some snacks and another Cactus Cooler.  I got a ride back to the station from a local and eventually made it to sleep.

SEVENTEEN – THURSDAY MAY 13, 2021

Except for one small group, all of the hikers made it out of camp before me.  This was only an eight mile section to the next road where there was another fire closure.  I hitched a ride that another hiker arranged from a trail angel and we were back on trail at the other side. 

Here I started to catch up to people from last night and after another six miles ahead I reached Hikertown.  Words can’t describe this place.  No, not because it is so amazing but because it is so strange.  There are several shacks in a town square shape, each with a different theme.  It looked like one of those fake western towns on the side of the highway you take pictures at.  Hikers can rent one to stay in for the night.  I only took one photo but it is worth looking up.  There is a shuttle that takes you in to town where there is a small store and restaurant.  The shuttle had just left when I arrived so I just hung out with some others, hiding from the sun and refilling water.

It is common to leave Hikertown at sunset and hike the LA Aqueduct at night.  If you haven’t figured it out this far, I do not like sitting around.  I left in the late afternoon and walked on top of this large water pipe and then onto paved and dirt roads through the desert.  Just before dark Brandon, who I met in Hikertown, caught up to me and we shared some night miles. Eventually I started to look for a flat spot up the hill from the road.

EIGHTEEN – FRIDAY MAY 14, 2021

Never sleep on top of a hill in a wind farm.  Turbines are placed in areas of high wind and on top of an exposed hill is the worst spot you could choose.  It was not terribly cold but all night I was constantly battling the wind from taking my gear.  Yesterday I hiked over 30 miles and combining that with the fire closure put me in a good spot.  I pushed hard out of Hikertown to set myself up for a short 25 mile day into Tehachapi.  

I had plenty of time to stop for some (super sick) self-timer photos and a break at the Mile 549 Bar & Grill.  The trail climbed out of the low desert and rolled around the side of the Tehachapi Mountains.  It had been a few days since my last resupply and I had another box to pick up in town tomorrow so I was eating as much as I could to lighten the load.  With just the right amount of food left in my pack, I was feeling light and decided to run the last few miles.

After reaching the highway and hitching a ride in to town I stopped at Walmart and rewarded myself with some 98 cent flip-flops and an extra external battery.  I was not spending any time hanging out at camp but it would be nice to let my feet breathe in towns.  I was struggling to keep devices charged so this extra capacity would also be worth the weight.  I booked a room at the motel and while walking down the street I passed a huge group.  “Sunny B” told me to come hang out with everyone later.  I was going to join them for some dinner but forecasting tomorrow’s shipment, I decided to cook some trail food I still had.  This was not an easy decision but a smart one.  A couple of hours later I had not heard from the other hikers so I walked a mile across the railroad tracks to Local Craft Beer (what a creative name).  Of course right after I ordered a beer I got a text saying they were heading to the local Veterans of Foreign Wars for karaoke night.  At the VFW we had a good time singing songs, shooting pool, and telling trail tales.  The camaraderie in this group was strong and it felt like one of those fun nights out in college.  I would later hear about them down the trail referred to as “The Horde”.  They were definitely the most trail famous tramily of the year.

NINETEEN – SATURDAY MAY 15, 2021

Staying the night in a lodge/motel/hotel was certainly a luxury.  It seemed easy to push the check-out time especially when you are ahead of pace.  I woke up to do laundry and took another shower in an attempt to get that stinch off of me.  Unsuccessful.  While looking in the mirror I noticed something was missing.  My butt! My stomach was also ripped up and more vascular than I had ever seen it.  I decided this was the best shape I had ever been in but also the pounds were starting to fall off in a scary way.  After walking across town to the post office I stopped at Kohen’s Country Bakery, a local German-style shop.  I ordered a huge sandwich with bacon and avocado and a pastry as well.  On the walk back to the motel I realized my wallet was missing.  They had it for me at the bakery where I just left it on the counter.  My contributing member to society brain had disappeared with my butt.

Back on the trail I had a couple of hours through the hills before crossing Highway 58 and climbing into the Piute Mountains.  This would be my last range before entering the South Sierra Nevada.  There was about 100 miles to the next resupply at Walker Pass and another 40 miles after that to my next box at Kennedy Meadows.  I decided to shoot for Kennedy but take it day by day.  The climb above the highway was steady and constant.  The sun set over the turbines and I realized this would be another windy section.  However, this time I would also be at elevation.  This made for a cold night hike where I broke out my windbreaker and gloves.  After searching for some tree cover I set up my tent simply for its warmth.

TWENTY – SUNDAY MAY 16, 2021

Only a few days after the CDC had dropped its mask mandate there was a new virus I had to fight.  Norovirus.  It was very similar in that it spread through human contact.  There was a particular spring it was believed to have originated from.  To avoid contamination, hikers were skipping that water source as well as others in the area to “out hike” the spread.  This meant cameling up and fighting the heat.  My pack was already heavy for the long stretch to Kennedy but I had no choice.

Ahead on the trail I saw a shining blue speck on top of a man-made plateau.  It could not possibly be.  Not all the way out here.  I bush wacked a few yards and then scrambled up the perfectly sloped embankment.  The top was flat and had a large square excavation with rebar in it.  This is where a new turbine foundation was being constructed.  Amazement aside, I realized this porta john was for the turbine workers.  I did not see anyone else around so I let myself in.

The day went on and just as the sun had set I was starting to focus my vision on the trail and adjust my eyes to the darkness.  I saw something large about fifty feet down the hillside off the trail.  As soon as I determined this was a bear it ran off.  A desert bear!  Technically I still had a few days to reach the southern Sierra but I would consider this the foothills.

TWENTY ONE – MONDAY MAY 17, 2021

By this point my mornings were a routine.  Wake up. Sit up.  Put my socks and shoes on.  Stand up. Take a picture.  Pack up and go.  I had every step down to a science.  This particular morning I woke up in a perfect clearing inside a group of bushes.  The protection from wind was unmatched.  I reached another milestone of 600 miles.

In the afternoon I approached a road crossing with a few cars parked but nobody around.  There was an endless amount of water jugs for bottle filling.  After using the provided hand sanitizer I filled up and headed on.

TWENTY TWO – TUESDAY MAY 18, 2021

I woke up tucked under some Joshua trees and against a stack of rocks, hiding from the wind at Bird Spring Pass.  This was the southern edge of Sequoia National Forest.  The name was familiar and I felt I should be in the Sierra.  Nope, definitely still in the desert.  After hiking most of the day I reached Walker Pass.  There were a couple of hikers hanging out and I specifically remember talking to “Optimus Grime”.  He offered me a (hot) trail magic beer and also showed me the fruit that had been dropped off.  What a combo. There was also a thru-rider at the pass.  Her horse was corralled but I think the rider was in town.  Each year a handful of people thru ride the PCT, though not as common as the CDT.

In the hour I was there I did not see much traffic pass.  Both of the towns on either side of Walker Pass did not have much to offer.  It was one of those weird halfway spots between common resupplies and it was far enough on the trail that hikers were becoming seasoned, not stopping at every chance.  My food bag still had plenty left to push another day, so I did not wait around for a hitch.  I pushed on into the Owens Peak Wilderness accompanied by a high desert sunset.  This was the best of the trip so far, topping the colors of Paradise Valley.  I was feeling good and even found some energy for a few running miles.  The dark brought some high winds and the trail became a rocky ledge.  I felt safe and it was one of those fun night hiking days.  I distinctly remember listening to Rich Roll’s interview wtih Mike Posner.  Yes, the guy who took a Pill in Ibiza.  He also was walking across America.  Go listen to his interview if you can.

TWENTY THREE – WEDNESDAY MAY 19, 2021

With about 38 miles to Kennedy Meadows I knew it would be a long but possible day.  The entire morning was spent winding around the mountains in Owens Peak Wilderness.  Eventually I descended into Lamont Meadow where I saw a trail magic sign on trail.  A rare sight!  The white canopy tent ahead confirmed this sign was not a mirage.  There were a dozen hikers with chairs, coolers, and a full tailgate spread.  This was probably the largest and most remote magic (the) gathering I had been a part of.  Pandemic aside, there was still Noro looming on trail.  We all used the hand washing station that “Kim’s Dad” set up for us.  There was a huge bowl of peanut M&M’s that had a large spoon for scooping to avoid the hand dunk.  I walked around the circle of chairs dumping scoops in hikers’ hands.  This is about as close as you could get to being a trail bartender.  It was a good time and it seemed like everyone was in high spirits with the end of the desert just a day away.

Kim’s Dad was whipping up some stew for the whole group.  I knew if I stayed for dinner it would slow me down by at least an hour.  I parted from the group and pushed on for another 20 miles to town.  The climb out of the meadow was immediately steep, up to Chimney Peaks Wilderness.  These peaks reached over 8,000 feet.  I reached the top before sunset and could see layers of the Sierra far off in the distance.  Not only the breeze gave me chills as I laid eyes on these monsters of mountains ahead.  To warm up, I ran the next 6 miles for a 2,000 foot descent in to Rockhouse Basin.  After another 8 easy flat miles I reached the road and walked that for a mile to the Kennedy Meadows general store.  There were tents scattered on the property and after finding a spot to spread out I then searched for power.  None of the outlets on the building were energized so I eventually gave up and went to sleep after a long day.  

The desert section was complete.